We enjoyed our breakfast overlooking the Rio Grande with the water moving quite fast. We cleaned the bikes enough to add some stickers and left around 11:00am in bright sunshine wondering whether we had put too many layers of clothes on. We only had about 100km to ride to Tolhuin and check in was not until 3:00pm at the place I had booked. It was a nice ride on Ruta 3 with the vegetation completely different to previous days with weathered small trees covered in lichens and much greener with reddish grasses and standing water in the valleys. After fuelling up on the outskirts of Tolhuin we decided to continue past Tolhuin to a restaurant overlooking Lago Fagnano for lunch. We had a lovely meal with a view overlooking the lake and the mountain range behind it and saw a road continuing on the lake foreshore past some white dome shaped buildings towards the township of Tolhuin and decided to take this road back to town and to our hotel after we placed some of our stickers on the hotel/restaurant window. The road went over an old wooden bridge, past the Tolhuin sign which we stopped at for pictures and then headed up and around the outskirts of town towards the hotel I had booked via booking.com On the way we got chased by two dogs which was super scary – not sure how I managed to keep the bike up and not pass out as I am terrified of dogs from a childhood incident where I was mauled by a dog and I used to pass out every time a dog approached and barked at me – the way these dogs run at the bikes and bark and chase along is very scary. We arrived at the place and nobody was on site – with my phone only having a little charge left, I messaged through booking.com which room and what the code for the key box was and we waited for a reply – there was a local phone number which we can’t ring from our phones snd after 3 messages with no reply and having waited over 30 minutes I was getting impatient (so not like me 😉😂) To make things worse some dark clouds blew in and it started raining and I really needed a baño. After sending a few more messages through booking.com and getting a reply with the name of the owner and a local phone number which I had already explained that we could not call and the owner was not on WhatsApp, we decided to book something else to get out of the cold and wet and – turns out that the white dome shaped buildings we saw from the restaurant and had driven past earlier were accommodations and they had one available for the night – we booked it and got on our way when a big Ute pulled up in front of us trying to block our way – the owner had finally arrived he walked up to Andrew shaking his hand but I did not want to have anything to do with him – we had stood outside for over an hour without any message back from him – he said he called my number but could not get through and asked if we are cancelling – Andrew apologised and we rode off back past the barking dogs and to the new accommodation right on the foreshore of the lake – the owner there was lovely and welcomed us – the place is amazing and has so much character and we were happy to have a lovely dry warm place with an amazing view for the night. We enjoyed the evening sunlight with a rainbow and took lots of pictures of the sunset.

We are very excited to only have about 100km to reach Ushuaia – the end of the world and just in time to celebrate Andrew’s birthday there🤗