I had a dream that I left the heated grips on and the bike would not start as I had drained the battery. Well, half of that dream was true – I had left the heated grips on for two days but the bike started just fine 😉🏍. I felt slightly better in the morning and had enough energy to walk through town to the beach where I spotted a Dark-bellied Cinclodes (Cinclodes patagonicus) – a little grey bird with characteristic white markings. I sat on a log and inhaled the ocean smell before walking back and packing up camp. A very affectionate grey-white cat visited us and wanted attention. We rode the 50km dirt road back with amazing views of the bay and continued on sealed roads to Cerro Sombrero where we fuelled up and then checked in to Hosteria Tunkelen where a young guy welcomed us and he spoke fluent German and put on an Aussie accent for Andrew. We had a hot shower and went for dinner at the hotel restaurant – we did not have to choose our dinner as there was only a set menu with soup, chicken with rice and jelly for dessert. I tried to get honey and tea but the waiter could only find some plant alternative of honey made out of palm – not the same healing or soothing for my throat but better than nothing 😉 and Andrew had a local beer. We had an early night as we knew the next day would be a long one trying to make it to Puerto Natales.